AFRICA-PART 2 Days 43-50

(We divided our blog of Africa into two parts since there’s an awful lot to report and even more in pictures to share. So, Part 1 is our four days “roughing it” in Kruger National Park South Africa. Part 2 is our two Safaris to Zimbabwe and Botswana).

Part two of Africa is the only piece of our trip that required outside help with bookings. This is because in this part of the world, travelers simply cannot show up, rent a car and travel around on their own to some of the most remote (and dangerous because of the wild animals) places on earth. To solve the problem there are operators that specialize in various forms of Safari and depending on what one wants to do and where one wants to go, they have the connections at the African camps and lodges to make it happen and the people to manage the traveler at every phase along the way.

That said, on the morning of day number 43, we were met in the Johannesburg City Lodge Hotel lobby by “Prince”, a handler who escorted us through the process of exiting South Africa and boarding our flight to Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe. 

It was a short hour and a half flight that incredibly included lunch (take note U.S. carriers). Literally in the breezeway of the exit ramp when we landed there was another handler waiting on us to take us through the entrance requirements and passport control to enter Zimbabwe. We were then handed off to our guide who was with us for the next two days-a native Zimbabwe man named Daba. Daba was middle-aged, very knowledgeable and very pleasant licensed guide. He took us to our hotel for the next two nights, the Llala Lodge Hotel. This was an extremely comfortable and attractive four-star hotel about a mile from Victoria Falls. From our room, we could hear the roar of the falls and see the mist rising from this enormous waterfall that is one of the seven natural wonders of the world. After getting settled in, we took off for a sunset cruise on the Zambezi River, the river that creates Victoria Falls further downstream. Beautiful sunset, unlimited drinks and sizable apps made this a memorable afternoon.

A very big iguana

Our expresso maker wasn’t working so Andrea called the front desk for a replacement, they sent three staff to fix it. Turns out the water  bucket wasn’t seated correctly. So impressed that three people showed up! 

The next morning, Daba picked us up and off we went to tour Victoria Falls. He warned us that we would get soaked in spite of the rain ponchos he provided to us. Victoria Falls National Park includes a very well-organized walking tour of these magnificent falls. Discovered by Dr. David Livingston in the mid 19^th century ... it is just so incredible to see. The water levels were very high when we were there so the resulting volume of water pouring over these falls was unimaginable. The mist from the falls creates an entire rainforest around the area and at certain points along the way it literally is like a thunderstorm and major downpour on your head. Also interesting was the Livingston Bridge that spans across the Zambezi River right beyond the Falls. The interesting history of this bridge is that it was built in pieces in the early 1900s in England and then shipped to Cape Town, South Africa where it was railroaded up to Victoria Falls, and then assembled. The Bridge was intended to be part of a rail road spanning from Cape Town all the way up to Cairo Egypt, but was never completed. The bridge is the border between Zimbabwe and Zambia.

Falls Facts 

Livingston Bridge

Super strength! 

After our falls tour, we enjoyed the day relaxing by the hotel pool and watching the impalas eat their fill of our porch flowers. 

View of the sunrise and the falls mist from our hotel 

For dinner that night we had what will be one of the great memories of this trip and that was a meal at a local Zimbabwean restaurant just down the street from our hotel and called “The Goat”. We both experienced the local food and shared a 
bottle of wine while listening to local music in the very local setting.

Bill had the road runner, Andrea had the Huku Dovi

Beep beep! 

Next morning, Daba picked us up for our trip to Botswana where we would fly to our first bush camp in that country. If there was ever a doubt that a guide is needed in this part of the world, it was assured when we transversed customs and passport control and numerous other bureaucratic stops to get from Zimbabwe to Botswana. We most definitely would not have been able to decipher the process had we not had Daba to make it happen for us.

Carrying our bags over the border 

Finally, once we stepped across onto Botswana soil, we said our goodbyes to Daba and were handed off to TeTe, the driver who got us to the airport who then handed us off to yet another person at the airport who helped us transverse the airport entrance requirements. Finally, we were in the air to the Xakanaxa Airstrip. There we were met by a Moremi Camp guide, a young Botswanan licensed guide named Joe who would be our guide for the duration of our stay at this camp. Moremi Camp is a beautiful and small safari lodge with 14 tented lodges. It’s an all-inclusive arrangement. The general drill is a 6 AM wake up, first game drive at 7 AM. Lunch and siesta from noon till 3 PM then a second game drive from 4 PM until sunset. It’s a long day but an exhilarating one full of constant game sightings and chases.

First view of the Okavango delta

The airport terminal

Moremi game reserve was great for viewing the cats. We tracked a mother cheetah and her two sons hunting. 

We also tracked two leopards. 

This female was marking her territory. 

 

This lion had a full belly! 

Of course there are more than just cats in the bush. 

Wild dogs, another animal that is a rare siting, they are the most endangered carnivore in Africa. Each dog has unique markings, no two are alike. They hunt in packs. 

They were too cute playing. 

Us with our guide Joe at sundowner cocktails. 

These pesky baboons made a ruckus outside of our room. 

Mother and baby

Just a little kiss 

Joe explaining the life of termites, that is a termite mound in the background. 

Hartebeest

Hyena

The water got quite deep in some areas but Joe did a great job navigating. 

Barn owl

Great horned owl 

African fish eagle

Saddle-billed Stork

One of the "ugly five". The marabou stork. 

African spoonbill

Coucal

Little bee eater

The tick eating birds on the giraffes neck 

Giraffe and zebra for size comparison 

Striking a pose

After three nights, we moved on to the second safari camp in Botswana named Okavango Camp. Here, this part of Botswana is entirely different from the northern part in that it is in the delta and is surrounded by water that is coming down from Angola. Because of this, the safari consists more of the fauna and flora than wildlife.

After a quick bush plane ride, we were transported to Okavango Camp by boat since the camp is actually on an island. Our two days there were spent on nature walks and canoe rides around the delta. There was a fair amount of wildlife to be seen but the beauty of this part of Botswana was just amazing.

Making our way to the boat

Monty, our guide for some of the excursions

Our accommodations were very nice. Loved the open bar concept! 

We ate family style at night and enjoyed meeting some very interesting people. 

Sunset boat cruise

This was our nature walk. King, our guide walked softly and carried a big gun! 

Our last evening in the bush enjoying a cruise thru the delta in a mokoro dugout canoe. Traditionally carved from the trunk of a tree and now made out of fiberglass. 

We did see a crocodile along the way

Tears, tears and more tears. So sad to be leaving this beautiful place. 

On day 50, we flew our last bush plane to Muan, Botswana for the one-hour flight back to Johannesburg. This completed a giant circle for us and also the fourth segment of our trip. Our last night was spent repacking and preparing for Bali, Indonesia. So long, Africa!